A 40-Year Mission to Recover Lost Varieties
For the past 40 years, Familia Torres has embarked on a pioneering mission to recover ancestral grape varieties that were thought to be lost due to the phylloxera blight of the late 19th century. Miguel A. Torres, a member of the fourth generation, was inspired by Professor Boubals from the University of Montpellier and initiated a search for these forgotten grapes. Miguel was convinced that some vines might have survived the phylloxera epidemic and were still growing wild, hidden away in Catalonia's rural landscape. To find them, he took the unconventional step of placing advertisements in local newspapers, inviting farmers and winegrowers to contact Familia Torres if they stumbled upon any old, unidentified vines—and they did.
From Philanthropy to Climate Adaptation
What began as a philanthropic and romantic endeavor to recover Catalonia's winemaking heritage soon transformed into a mission to adapt to climate change. Over the last 20 years, with the involvement of the fifth generation of the family, the project has focused on identifying and reviving grape varieties that not only possess great winemaking potential, but also the ability to withstand higher temperatures and drought—challenges posed by climate change.
A Complex and Time-Consuming Process
The process of reviving these lost varieties is long and complex. Once a new variety is discovered and verified through DNA analysis, the plant must be cleaned to ensure it is free of viruses. It is then reproduced in vitro (in the laboratory), followed by growth in a greenhouse, and eventually transplanted into the vineyard. Only after the first grapes are harvested can the wine’s characteristics and quality be evaluated. If the wine shows promise, a name is chosen, and the process to have the variety officially registered within Spain’s commercial vine variety registry begins.
Forcada: A White Grape for the Future
Among the more than 60 grape varieties found by Familia Torres, one in particular stands out—Forcada. This is the only white grape of interest and is being grown in Alt Penedès. The Forcada grape is remarkable for its aromatic intensity and freshness, making it a valuable addition to the family's portfolio of wines.
The 2021 Vintage: A Year of Extremes
The 2021 vintage was a challenging year for the Torres family, as it was marked by record high temperatures throughout most of the growing season. Spring began with mild temperatures, allowing the vines to awaken gradually from their winter dormancy. However, the summer months saw several extreme heat events, adding pressure to the growing cycle. The year was also characterized by rain shortages, though July and August brought much-needed rainfall, providing an optimal period for fruit maturation. The growing season concluded with a very dry end, but despite the challenges, the Forcada grapes, harvested towards the end of September, managed to thrive. Remarkably, Forcada was the last white variety to be picked in Penedès, nearly a month later than the region's other white varieties.
A Step Toward the Future
Through its commitment to reviving Catalonia's ancient grape varieties and adapting to the changing climate, Familia Torres is not only restoring part of the region’s winemaking heritage but also forging a new path toward the future of sustainable viticulture. Forcada stands as a testament to the family's dedication to preserving authenticity, producing unique wines, and ensuring the resilience of viticulture in an ever-changing world.
