Philosophy and Commitment to Terroir
All Hilberg Pasquero wines aim to embody the purest expression of their terroir. This commitment is reflected in our registered trademark, bio-ergo-dynamic (established in the early 2000s, well before the natural wine trend and European Commission regulations). Ergon—the work of the vigneron—is at the heart of our philosophy. As active participants in this process, we make thoughtful choices grounded in experience, science, common sense, and a touch of belief.
We follow biodynamic principles in the vineyard, and our wines are organic and vegan-friendly. They ferment with indigenous yeasts, undergo spontaneous fermentation, are not clarified, and contain very low levels of sulfites.
Vareij: A Signature Wine with a Story
The name Vareij comes from the combination of Varai—a local dialect term for north/east-facing valleys—and the family nickname Varè, as the family farmhouse sits atop the hill overlooking the valley. The added j is characteristic of the Piedmontese language and brings a "Nordic touch," reflecting Hilberg’s influence.
An iconic wine for the Pasquero family, it has traditionally blended French Bragat with Barbera. The current blend consists of approximately 80-85 cases of Bragat co-fermented with 15-50 cases of Barbera. This co-fermentation process allows the wine to develop as a unified whole, rather than as a typical blend.
Co-fermentation for Balance and Complexity
Co-fermentation enhances key characteristics, including color, aroma, and acidity, and provides a structure that supports the wine’s longevity. Barbera’s fresh, vivid notes complement Bragat’s aromatic qualities, adding complexity and balancing any potential sweetness that aromatic varieties can sometimes display.
French Bragat: A Rare Indigenous Variety
French Bragat is an indigenous clone from the Brachetto family, thought by some to have originated in southern France (the Nice area), though it is distinct from the
Brachetto d'Acqui grape, as well as from Ruchè and Pelaverga, despite their similar aromas. French Bragat is gentler, with large clusters of small berries, but the vines are fragile and prone to disease, which has historically reduced their cultivation and production in the area.
We are currently making massal selections of our clone to preserve the best "hypogenetic" traits of this variety, planting new vineyards and replacing old, ailing vines.
Winemaking Process
The grapes are carefully handpicked and selected, then gently destemmed and fermented in open stainless steel vats. We perform manual punch-downs and gentle fermentation to extract aromas delicately. The wine undergoes spontaneous malolactic fermentation, naturally decants for a year, and is bottled during the waning moon in summer to avoid trapping natural CO₂.