The Essence of Donnafugata's Wines
The natural sweet wines of Donnafugata, exuding sunniness and elegance, represent the essence of the Zibibbo grape cultivated on the island of Pantelleria. From this unique terroir, the winery crafts Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria DOC, revered as one of Italy's most esteemed dessert wines worldwide, alongside its dry table-wine counterpart, Lighea.
Challenges of Viticulture in Pantelleria
Pantelleria, a volcanic island situated between Sicily and North Africa, experiences extreme winds and natural conditions, demanding sustainable viticulture practices. The vineyards, some dating back a century, sprawl across diverse districts with predominantly sandy volcanic soils, ranging from 20 to 400 meters above sea level.
Historic Viticulture Tradition
Zibibbo, renowned for its aromatic profile, thrives in Pantelleria's historic viticulture tradition of head-trained bush vines, recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity for its creative and sustainable approach. These vines are cultivated within sandy basins, pruned to adopt a horizontal growth pattern that withstands the island's relentless winds.
The Rigors of Viticulture in Pantelleria
Viticulture in Pantelleria demands unwavering dedication, passion, and commitment. The steep terraced lands, delineated by labor-intensive dry lava stone walls, necessitate daily toil. The labor intensity is roughly triple that of typical quality-oriented vineyards, excluding the maintenance of approximately 40 kilometers of dry stone walls.
Crafting Ben Ryé
Ben Ryé, named after the island's winds, stands as one of Italy's most esteemed natural sweet wines. The Zibibbo harvest at Donnafugata unfolds over 3–4 weeks, with grapes meticulously handpicked and sorted in the vineyards. Upon reaching the winery, the grapes undergo further sorting on a vibrating table before gentle pressing. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, with dried grapes added in several batches to the fresh must, each destemmed and hand-selected. During maceration, the dried grapes impart their exceptional sweetness, freshness, and distinctive aroma. The vinification process, encompassing fermentation and maceration, extends over a month. Aging occurs in stainless steel for five months followed by at least eight months in bottle before release.
